Pleurotes in Shirts

• Take a coffee mug full of semolina made from hard wheat and mix it with just enough water to form a stiff but not dry mass. Knead it with all you've got for say, thirty turns. Let it rest, cooled and wrapped to keep it from drying out, until you need it.
• Take your oyster mushrooms, for that is what we're talking about here, (although the resourceful cook will likely think of other fungi that could fit in) and either chop them all or leave enough of the smallest nicest ones for placement within each dumpling.
• Clean and chop a couple-three leeks, and set them to sweat slowly in a spoon of your best oil until they begin to colour.
• Add your oyster mushrooms and some salt. When they've given up their ichor, and are going dry, swash the pan with some white wine. Reduce somewhat, leaving the result moist, and let it cool.
• Mince a thick slice of stale rye bread and gently add it to the mushroom mixture, along with a small handful of chopped parsley, some grated lemon peel, a pinch of grated nutmeg and another pinch of cayenne pepper.
• Divide the semolina paste in half. Roll out both portions, dusting with cornstarch just as necessary, until very thin.
• Dot the surface of one sheet, at regular intervals, with small spoonfuls of the stuffing, keeping them well separated. If you have reserved individual mushrooms for the purpose, put one atop each pile. Paint the channels betwixt each heap of stuffing with a moistened forefinger, then lay the second sheet of paste over all this. Use the dull back of a knife or whatever to cut each dumpling away from the others and crimp the edges with a fork if you're unsure of the seal.
• Poach these in salted water, just short of a boil, for a few minutes. Of course cooking time will depend on how thinly the paste was rolled, but like any fresh paste product, it will be rapid; so test for doneness.

We like to serve these in a very clear broth made with oyster mushrooms, toasted rusks on the side.

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